Growing guides, and the rules that apply to your farm.

Farming Knowledge

Short guides on growing, protecting and selling your crop.

Choosing a crop for your field

Match the crop to water, season and what you can sell - not only to what the neighbour planted.

A crop that “usually works in this district” can still fail on your plot. Start with three facts you already know: how reliable the water is, which season you are planting in (Maha or Yala, or a short catch crop between them), and who will buy the harvest.

Then check the field itself.

  • Low-lying, poorly drained ground favours paddy. Raised beds and well-drained red or sandy soils suit chilli, onion, groundnut and many vegetables.
  • A short, dry spell in the middle of the crop is harder on shallow-rooted vegetables than on a well-established perennial.
  • If the only buyer in your area wants one grade or one size, growing a variety they will not take is a loss even if the plants look healthy.

Farmey’s Crop Plan tool, inside the app, scores a crop for your district and zone. Use these pages for the “why”; use the app when you want a score for a specific planting.

Preparing the land before planting

Clear, loosen and level so roots and water both have somewhere to go.

Most “the seed did not come up” stories start before the seed went in. The bed was hard, the trash was still there, or water sat on the surface after the first rain.

  • Remove last season’s stubble and weeds. Burning is common; it also kills organic matter the next crop would have used. If you can, compost the trash instead.
  • Loosen the topsoil so a root can push through. A hard pan under a few centimetres of powdery soil is worse than a field that looks rough on top.
  • Level enough that water neither ponds in one corner nor runs off the bed before it soaks in.
  • For vegetables, a raised bed sheds heavy rain. For paddy, the bunds have to hold water, so leaks are the thing to find now - not after transplanting.

Do this work when the soil is moist, not when it is dust or mud. Wet puddling of vegetable ground packs it; dry ploughing of paddy ground will not puddle later.

Watering without waste

Water the root zone, at the right time of day, and stop when the soil has had enough.

A wet leaf in the midday sun is not the same as a wet root. Overhead watering at noon loses water to the air and can scorch tender leaves. Early morning is usually kinder; evening watering that leaves foliage wet overnight can invite fungus in humid months.

  • Feel the soil a finger’s depth down, not just the crust. If it is cool and holds together, wait.
  • Give a thorough soak less often rather than a light sprinkle every day. Shallow watering trains roots to stay near the surface, where they dry out first.
  • Mulch (rice straw, dried weeds without seed heads) slows evaporation and keeps rain from sealing the surface.
  • If you irrigate from a canal or well on a roster, plan the day’s field work around that slot - not the other way around.

The Weather screen in the app shows the forecast for the field you are standing in. It does not tell you when to spray; it tells you whether rain is likely, so you can decide.

Spotting leaf disease early

Walk the crop. Look at the underside of leaves. Act on the first patches, not the whole field turning yellow.

Most leaf diseases are cheaper to stop in the first few plants than after they have a wind or splash of rain to ride. A weekly walk - the same path, looking at old and new leaves - is more useful than a photograph of a field that already looks sick.

  • Note where the damage is: new leaves, old leaves, fruit, stem, or only the plants at the wet end of the bed.
  • Turn the leaf over. Many mildews and mites start on the underside.
  • Yellowing that starts between the veins is often hunger, not a fungus. Spots with a ring, a fuzzy coat, or a wet rot are more likely a disease or a pest.
  • Remove badly infected leaves from the field; do not leave them in the irrigation furrow.

Plant Doctor in the app can look at a photo of a leaf. It is a check, not a lab result. If the crop is valuable or the damage is spreading, take a sample to your Agrarian Service Centre or an extension officer and ask them to look.

Selling at the pola and to collectors

Grade before you bag. Know today’s price. Do not let a load sit in the sun while you wait.

What you grew and what you get paid for are not the same thing. A mixed bag of large and small, ripe and green, or damaged and sound, will be priced as the worst of the lot.

  • Sort by size and condition at the field, in the shade. One extra hour of grading often pays more than an extra hour of picking.
  • Look up today’s price in Farmey before you leave. A collector’s first offer is a starting point, not a fact of nature.
  • Weigh if you can. “A bag” is not a unit you can argue about later.
  • Keep harvested vegetables cool and moving. A load that waited in the sun on the road has already lost weight and shelf life.

If you sell to a dedicated collector every week, write down the date, weight and price. Memory favours the person who does this every day.

Rules & Regulations

The rules that apply to what you grow, spray, move and sell.

What you may spray

Only registered pesticides, at the labelled rate, with the waiting period before harvest.

Sri Lanka restricts which pesticide products may be imported, sold and used. A bottle without a Registrar of Pesticides label, or a product that was banned after you bought it, is not “what everyone uses” - it is a risk to you, to the next crop, and to whoever eats what you sell.

  • Buy from a licensed dealer. Keep the receipt and the labelled empty, at least until after harvest.
  • The label’s crop list is the crop list. Mixing a rice chemical onto vegetables because “it kills insects” is how residues and burned leaves both happen.
  • The pre-harvest interval (the days you must wait after the last spray) is part of the rule, not a suggestion. Markets and exporters will test.
  • Do not spray into the wind, over water, or without the protection the label names.

If you are unsure whether a product is still allowed, ask at the Agrarian Service Centre before you buy another bottle. This page is a guide, not the gazette.

Moving plants and produce

Seed, cuttings and some harvests cannot travel freely if a pest or disease is under quarantine.

Moving a healthy-looking plant from one district to another is how several pests arrived in fields that had never seen them. Quarantine rules exist for that reason, and they change when a new outbreak is declared.

  • Certified seed and registered nurseries are the ordinary legal path for planting material. Roadside plants with no origin are the usual path for a new disease.
  • Some crops need a permit or a phytosanitary certificate before they leave a declared area or go for export. Fresh vegetables for the next town’s pola usually do not; planting material often does.
  • If an officer stops a load, the question is where it came from and what it is, not whether you “only have a little”.

Before you move a large quantity of plants, ask the Agrarian Service Centre or the Department of Agriculture office that covers your area. Do not treat a rumour of a ban as a rule, and do not treat the absence of a checkpoint as permission.

Selling what you grow

The pola, a collector and an exporter do not ask for the same papers - or the same pesticide history.

Selling a surplus at the village pola is ordinary farm trade. Selling into a supermarket packhouse or an export lot is a different job: they will ask who grew it, what was sprayed, and whether the produce meets a grade.

  • Keep a simple spray and fertiliser record for the cultivation - dates, product, rate. You will need it the first time a buyer asks, and not before.
  • Do not sell produce that is still inside a pesticide waiting period. That is both a food-safety rule and a way to lose a buyer permanently.
  • If you use a scale at a dedicated stall, the weights and measures rules apply to you the same way they apply to the trader next to you.
  • Export and some contract-farming schemes require registration and inspections. Those are specific programmes; they are not a licence you need in order to sell at the pola.

When a scheme or a buyer talks about “GAP certification” or a farmer list, get the requirement in writing from them or from the Agrarian Service Centre. This stub does not replace that paper.